Graham Squire,The Goring
Chefs Engagés
Champagne AYALA has been meeting passionate chefs whose culinary practices go far beyond the plate — chefs whose commitment to people and the planet gives true meaning to their cuisine, chefs who are making things happen. One such encounter led the House to Chef Graham Squire, Executive Chef of The Goring in London — the sixth member of the growing community of Chefs Engagés, joining the committed chefs David Sulpice at La Villa l'Etang Blanc, Luke Holder at Limewood Hotel., Gianni Pinto at Noi, Alice Arnoux at Café de l'Usine and Manon Negretti-Guichard at Bonnotte.
At The Goring, London’s last family-owned five-star hotel, Chef Graham Squire preserves the soul of iconic British cuisine—refining tradition with a modern touch, whilst mentoring the next generation with sincerity. Timeless heritage and contemporary execution. A mindset we understand and practice every day at Champagne AYALA. From our foundation in 1860, we’ve passed on savoir-faire, refined our methods, and always looked at renovating our historic site with eco-conscious precision. Like Chef Graham Squire, we craft for today and tomorrow, whilst always staying true to yesterday.
Graham Squire – His vision of tomorrow’s kitchen – A Timeless Table
The past can be a powerful guide—but only if you allow it to evolve. That belief is at the heart of Graham Squire’s vision for The Goring’s Dining Room. With more than a century of tradition behind it, the restaurant could easily have rested on its laurels. Instead, Graham brings a bold sense of relevance to its revered foundations, proving that even the most iconic establishments must continue to grow.
In 2024, The Goring unveiled a remarkable refurbishment: new interiors designed by Russell Sage Studio, and a state-of-the-art kitchen that now serves as the creative heartbeat of the Dining Room. Under Graham’s leadership, the restaurant proudly retained its Michelin star, while embracing a new era of modern British gastronomy.
Yet, amidst the transformation, the classics remain. Signature dishes like lobster omelette, beef Wellington, and rum baba still headline the menu—dishes that guests return for year after year. These meals are more than just food; they are rituals that span generations. And while the essence of each dish is preserved, Graham carefully introduces seasonal twists, either by changing a key ingredient or refining the cooking method—subtle touches that breathe new life into timeless plates.
This philosophy mirrors the Champagne AYALA approach to winemaking. Though steeped in history and tradition, AYALA has embraced innovation, introducing eco-friendly practices and small stainless steel vats at their historic site in Aÿ to preserve freshness and precision. Just as Graham fine-tunes tradition in the kitchen, AYALA refines each cuvée to reflect both heritage and modernity. In both cases, tradition is a foundation, not a finish line.
And then there’s “The Goring Way”—an unmistakable mix of eccentric charm, understated fun, and classic British character. It’s fine dining without stiffness, luxury without pretence. The dining room is a place where long-time regulars, visiting royals, and first-time guests all find something familiar—and something new.
Beyond the menu, Graham is also deeply focused on legacy. Through an apprenticeship programme, he mentors young chefs, sharing knowledge and instilling in them the same commitment that has shaped his own career. “It’s the young generation that’ll cure the kitchen,” he often says—a reflection of his belief in the power of training, guidance, and patience.
The result is a restaurant that balances memory and momentum. With Graham Squire as its committed chef, The Goring’s Dining Room is not just a place to eat, but a place to experience something enduring—a meal that pays tribute to the past while looking firmly toward the future, much like the philosophy that continues to define Champagne AYALA.
